Our Chronicle Review is out. Three Stars!

We are very proud and excited for our team for garnering such a great review from Michael Bauer in the San Francisco Chronicle

   Village Sake. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle


Village Sake. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Scott Porter is a Fairfax firefighter, but you’ll also see him working the door at Village Sake, greeting guests and kindly telling hungry patrons there might be a 45-minute wait.

Even when the doors open at 5 p.m. on a Sunday, there are enough people waiting to fill all 36 seats. Their patience is rewarded with pristine slices of Japanese sea bream ($11), skewers of skirt steak glazed with yuzu ($11) and crisp, lacy tempura ($9). That’s probably the reason Michael Mina and his wife were among those standing in line one evening.

Porter has a strong local connection to this quirky town of 7,500, which is said to have the highest percentage of Green Party members in the United States — and his partner Scott Whitman has the talent to keep them coming back. For 15 years, Whitman was the chef at the popular Sushi Ran in Sausalito, consistently earning a place in the Bay Area’s Top 100 Restaurants.

The pair took over a Chinese restaurant in downtown Fairfax and turned it into a Japanese pub, which seems a little esoteric with all the bars and entertainment venues that line the surrounding storefronts. Yet it’s clear people are hungry for what Village Sake offers.

I had a flashback to Sushi Ran when I tasted Whitman’s miso black cod ($16) perched on a bed of spinach. It was always one of the most popular dishes in Sausalito and it continues to resonate here. Several other specialties, such as the hamachi collar ($15), will also seem familiar to fans of Sushi Ran. It, too, is a must-order item; with its rich, bold flavor, it’s the foie gras of seafood.

The Village Sake menu consists of small plates, a few sashimi and nigiri options, maki rolls and three or so skewers, including smoky chicken thighs ($7) lightly brushed with a soy-based sauce.

Whitman’s tempura was always a wonder in Sausalito, and it’s just as light here whether the batter is coating tender green beans ($8) or in a more substantial fry with shrimp, burdock root, sweet potatoes and other vegetables ($9).

The compact space was designed by Jim Maxwell of Architects II in San Francisco and it has a pleasant rustic vibe. A row of high wooden booths line one wall, and a counter separates the dining room from the kitchen where you can see Whitman, with his lanky physique and long blond ponytail, stoking the fire.

It’s amazing what the crew turns out of that tiny kitchen. Even when they’re slammed with everyone sitting down at the same time, the plates come out rapidly and beautifully presented. The Wagyu beef tataki ($22), far and away the most expensive item on the menu, consists of two dozen thin slices of marbled beef precisely fanned around a knob of daikon, red onions, ponzu and hot red pepper paste, which the efficient waiter suggested we mix together to help flavor the meat. It’s a combination that works on every level.

Charred octopus ($14), explosive with Korean red chile paste, is beautifully displayed on an oblong plate, its tentacles arranged between tiny potatoes and leaves of mizuna.

Whitman is unparalleled in his treatment of vegetables. He chars Brussels sprouts ($6) and flavors them with kimchi, creating a dish that is so good I can’t get it out of my mind. He spikes spaghetti squash ($6) with curry, ginger and lime, twisting the long strands into a beehive in the center of the plate; it looks like a pile of angel hair pasta, but still has a vegetable crunch. In yet another memorable preparation, Whitman grills shiitake mushrooms ($8) and tosses them with green onion, ginger soy sauce and clumps of tempura fried corn.

The small-plate selection includes delicate scallop-chive dumplings ($9) where the gossamer wrapper encases finely minced seafood and little chunks of ginger that continually surprise with intensity.

Grilled yellowtail collar at Village Sake in Fairfax.Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Grilled yellowtail collar at Village Sake in Fairfax.Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

The restaurant features about 10 maki rolls — including my favorite, the crab and avocado roll with cucumber and tea leaf aioli ($7). Others include spicy tuna with shiso, avocado and jalapeño ($9); the Village roll ($15) with spicy tuna, tempura shrimp and crab; and tea-smoked ocean trout ($12). From the dozens that I saw being made to order, it’s clear that many people come to Village Sake for these items, but they often have so many ingredients that the fish gets lost. I could go an entire meal without them and be happy.

Instead I gravitate to one of the raw fish preparations, such as smoked hamachi tataki ($14) with avocado, supremes of ruby grapefruit and a yuzu black pepper sauce. There may be only six or eight different kinds of fish available as nigiri — such as ocean trout or red snapper ($7) — but the flavors are pure and the rice is perfectly prepared, so that the grains are separate but creamy.

The staff has a good feel for the clientele, helping them find their way through the menu and in choosing among the 15 or so sakes on the list. In fact, some of the staff worked with Whitman at Sushi Ran and followed him to Fairfax.

Each meal, we got an education about sakes. About halfway through a carafe of sake, Hiromi Higuchi, a certified sake sommelier, asked what we thought of it. She then offered samples of two others, including one she equated to a “martini” because of its intense flavor.

Chef Scott Whitman. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Chef Scott Whitman. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

I probably wouldn’t have ordered dessert if I wasn’t working, but then I would’ve missed the warm, moist toffee cake ($8), similar to what he produced at Sushi Ran, served with ginger gelato. There’s also a coconut mochi cake that walks the line between the classic American dessert and the rubbery, chewy Japanese sweet. Whitman also offers doughnut holes ($8) that are worth ordering if for no other reason than the accompanying miso caramel sauce.

Warm toffee cake at Village Sake in Fairfax. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

Warm toffee cake at Village Sake in Fairfax. Photo: John Storey, Special To The Chronicle

From start to finish you can see the professionalism in the decor, service and the food. It’s a restaurant that not only fills a need in Marin, but one that would lure me across the bridge for the nigiri, hamachi collar and those kimchi Brussels sprouts.

★ ★ ★

Village Sake

Food: ★ ★ ★

Service: ★ ★ ★

Noise: Three Bells